..It was, in a month that has been saturated in both bomber jackets and camel coats, both on the runways and the streets outside them, extremely clever..” Alessandra Codinha on F/W 2016 on Vogue Runway

read the rest of the review and see the collection here

Lutz Huelle, a line that guns for visual intrigue through “awkwardness” (as written in a Tumblr-published manifesto from February), aims to dress real people — as complex and multifaceted and unpredictable as they may be. This typically comes through in what Huelle has described as his “unreadable” designs, which can produce a problem for those employed to do the reading. But no matter: For Fall 2016, Huelle decided to go big, attempting to “add volume to the body without oversizing it.” This translated into a tailored camel coat and sleeveless vest with front panels tripled in size, denim jackets that went from single breasted to “triple-breasted” courtesy of additional sweeping fabric panels, and Huelle’s bomber jacket (“my beloved bombers”), which—with contrasting panels and finishings in double wool—seemed closer to a trench coat. It was, in a month that has been saturated in both bomber jackets and camel coats, both on the runways and the streets outside them, extremely clever and not at all too tricky to imagine fitting into a fashionable wardrobe.

 

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