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Thursday September 27th, 2012
Les Beaux-Arts de Paris, Salle Mélpomène
Huelle’s line was launched in 2000 simply as “Lutz”, with a design aesthetic often described as ‘decontextualisation’, “cut & paste” and “bricolage”. Mixing things up and taking them a step further, out of the normal and expected context, today the “Lutz Huelle” line has sales points throughout the world, some key cities being Paris, Berlin, New York, Hong Kong, Seoul and Tokyo.
Inspirations from everyday life are constant, and this season Huelle is influenced by the simplicity of subtle yet graceful movements and gestures. He injects the everyday wardrobe staple with elements of couture for wonderfully surprising finishing touches and ending results. A simple baseball jacket is made more special by lengthening it with silk organza, and the standard parka is made into a luxury item by using a fluid crocodile print silk georgette.
Continuing forward with his innovatively draped creations from last season, his collection displayed a bigger selection of these lovely wrapped items to all our delights. In a monotone color palette of cream, white and black, with small pops of jewel tone colors in purple, green, and yellow these were beautiful representations of his new and less rigid aesthetic. There were sophisticated material combinations in the solid and sheer wrap around coats, and elegant details in the monochromatic faceted stone screenprints on black silk satins or silk chiffons. All were nicely finished off with ultra chic and modern footwear.
The overall presentation was clean, sharp and coherent. There were no random or unexpected surprises other than the music which was a mix of classical, both ethereal and intensely dramatic at times, with a small injection of Bruce Springsteen’s “I’m on Fire”, and a finale of Billy Idol’s “White Wedding”. Huelle’s clothing is serious yes, and does evoke a strong modern woman, but it is also fun, playful, and to be enjoyed.
- Elise Goldberg Santiago
We decided to check out the spring looks at H. Lorenzo at Sunset Plaza (8660 West Sunset) – it’s one of the most amazing stores in Los Angeles, carrying almost exclusively the most avant garde and interesting clothing labels out of Europe: Preen, Commes des Garcons, Haider Ackerman, Anne Valerie Hash, Ann Demuelemeester. It’s definitely a cool girl, cool guy, store, and it’s for the most part VERY expensive. They do carry the fabulous jackets and other pieces of the L.A. line Grai, but almost everything else is from Paris or Tokyo. It’s the kind of store rock stars shop in – they come down from the Hollywood Hills and drop a big wad of cash. (FYI: they have a fabulous tent sale in November behind their regular store and slash the prices.) Checking out the Grai, Preen and Commes des Garcons, we noticed a label we were unfamiliar with: LUTZ. The label on the assymetrical dresses is very cool looking, and we were impressed with the architectural shapes of the clothes, the play of texture and volume – these pieces did NOT look like anything else in the store, and they were slightly more reasonably priced than other lines. So we looked up Lutz, and this is what we learned: Lutz Huelle is based in Paris, attended London’s Central Saint Martinsfashion school (the best school for design in the world), spent three years designing knitwear for Martin Margiela – and then formed his own label in 2000. He shows twice a year in Paris – and we’re kind of AMAZED he hasn’t had more American press, or his line isn’t in more stores. We’ve never seen it at Barneys – nor in any store in New York (though it must be in some NY stores). In any case, here are a few looks from spring, and fall 2010 looks amazing as well. If you want to wear something totally unique, google “Lutz fashion” – or head up to H. Lorenzo. – MerleGinsberg